Ulta Beauty trimmed its assortment and accelerated exclusive brand partnerships in Q2 2024 as Target opened 600 Beauty Studios inside existing stores, according to Retail Dive. The move is defensive positioning dressed as curation — and it worked. Ulta reported stronger traffic and basket size in categories where it holds exclusive distribution, even as Target's expanded beauty footprint put pressure on the prestige-meets-accessible model both chains share.
Ulta reduced its SKU count by several thousand units across color cosmetics and skincare, prioritizing brands available only through its stores and site. The company signed new exclusivity agreements with emerging prestige labels and extended existing deals with established names, creating assortment gaps Target cannot fill. It also launched limited-edition capsules with brands like Fenty and Olaplex, available in Ulta stores for narrow windows before broader release. The strategy trades breadth for differentiation: if a shopper wants that product, only one retailer stocks it.
The mechanism is positional scarcity. When two retailers carry overlapping assortment, the shopper picks based on convenience or price. When one holds exclusivity, it becomes destination. Ulta's bet is that exclusive access to 20-30 emerging prestige brands and limited SKUs from marquee names will drive trips that Target's broader but non-exclusive beauty section cannot intercept. The tactic also raises switching costs for brands: once a label commits to Ulta exclusivity, it cannot simultaneously chase Target's volume without breaking the deal.
A small physical-product brand can run the same play without a retail buyer. Offer one exclusive variant or colorway to a single retailer or DTC partner for a fixed term — 90 to 180 days is enough to create urgency. Structure it as a numbered limited edition: 500 units, name on each box, available only through that channel. The retailer promotes it because they own it. The customer buys it because scarcity works. You control the relationship and the margin, and the exclusivity window becomes the anchor for a broader assortment later.
For brands already on retail shelves, the steal is the capsule exclusive. Approach a single chain with a SKU they cannot get anywhere else: a seasonal color, a bundled kit, a packaging variant. Commit 1,000 to 2,000 units with a four-month exclusivity clause. The retailer merchandises it as special, you avoid channel conflict, and the limited run creates pull-through for your core line. When the window closes, you own the data on what sold and can expand or kill the variant without over-committing inventory.
Ulta's SKU reduction is the other half. Fewer products, better stories, cleaner shelves. The takeaway for any brand selling physical goods: when competition multiplies, shrink your assortment and own what is left. Exclusivity is not about being everywhere — it is about being the only place for something specific.